It's a Wednesday morning in July and I'm watching a relatively unknown woman get ready for a photoshoot at her flat in northeast London. There's no backdrop, no team for hair and makeup, and aside from a camera, no additional equipment or assistants. There isn't an actual client or publication commissioning the photos, either. Emma is a self-proclaimed Instagram model—not to be confused with a model on Instagram, the Gigi Hadids and Kendall Jenners who use the app to promote their traditional modeling careers. Emma says she uses the platform as a vehicle for career advancement, creative expression, and a way to earn money.

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High fashion consistently chooses a very specific type of person to stride the catwalks and appear in the pages of style publications. Where do these women come from, with their height and thinness and angular features? Do they appear, fully-formed, with the correct measurements at age 18, as if emerging from an industry-standard chrysalis? The most famous and highest-earning models are often scouted when they are children, adolescents under the age of